See where we have been.
http://www.trackmytour.com/353
The last word
We have seen mankinds greatest works of art and natures best efforts in the richness of Tuscany and the drama of the Tyrol. Our ride has been accompanied by the everpresent sounds of birdsong and running water and with church bells announcing the towns and cities. How could you see a country or countries better than by biking? I suggest only by walking. Would we do things differently next time? Not much, only a few tweaks. Cycling rules in Europe and I have to say that the courtesy and patience towards all cyclists by European motorists has played a large part in making our trip a success. We will be glad to get home but sorry to leave.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Lauenburg to Hamburg - August 1
We made it to Hamburg, the end of our long ride. My bike computer tells me we have ridden just over 3700 kilometres since we landed in Rome nearly three months ago.
This morning after a very good breakfast at our hotel in Lauenburg we set off with the sun shining and a gentle breeze at our back.
It was a fairly uneventful ride of about 65km. After Rod's experience riding this section on the Elbe route, and also on the advice of our waitress at dinner last night, we crossed the river first thing this morning and rode along the south bank as far as we could, crossing back by ferry at Hoopte.
Looking back at Lauenberg from the bridge over the Elbe.
Looks pretty good, doesn't it?
Our last ferry crossing.
The bike path approaching Hamburg - not as good as we expected.
We rode right into the centre of Hamburg and to our hotel without any trouble. There appear to be bike paths along all the major roads in the city. Mostly they are in the form of a red paver path running along the footpath.
Hamburg bike path on the way to our hotel.
We are in the Pacific Hotel which is fairly central and quite comfortable. Rod stayed here earlier and booked a room for us.
The view from our hotel room in Hamburg.
August 1 Schwarzenbek Hamburg
Rod’s solo tour
After a good night’s dining and sleep I decided the place was OK and that another night in situ might be the way to go. Unfortunately not only was the place fully booked I could not get anything else in town.
Back down the main street I decided that I would check out the place with the cut up firearms in the window. Inside I met a very affable Michael Brandt, who I guess could be described as a master gunsmith. Had a long chat with Michael about the cut up weapons, it seems they are his protest at the way the Germany government treats gun ownership. Leaving that aside he took time to show me quite a number of collectable weapons and his own handmade rifles. Beautiful examples of the gunsmith’s craft. Ended up buying a German police/rescue knife for my son, Joe, after Michael offered me a good deal on it. It is a folding knife that features one-handed operation. An excellent gift for a climbing instructor/guide. This was a bit of luck as I had purchased presents for all my daughters but until then had not found the ideal present for Joe.
That afternoon I headed into Hamburg and back to the hotel I had previously stayed at and where I had booked rooms for Tracey and Pat. They were in the foyer when I arrived (I kept running into these guys). Short story was they were full I so stayed down the road at a much more expensive venue until rooms I had booked for next day were available.
This morning after a very good breakfast at our hotel in Lauenburg we set off with the sun shining and a gentle breeze at our back.
It was a fairly uneventful ride of about 65km. After Rod's experience riding this section on the Elbe route, and also on the advice of our waitress at dinner last night, we crossed the river first thing this morning and rode along the south bank as far as we could, crossing back by ferry at Hoopte.
Looking back at Lauenberg from the bridge over the Elbe.
Looks pretty good, doesn't it?
Our last ferry crossing.
The bike path approaching Hamburg - not as good as we expected.We rode right into the centre of Hamburg and to our hotel without any trouble. There appear to be bike paths along all the major roads in the city. Mostly they are in the form of a red paver path running along the footpath.
Hamburg bike path on the way to our hotel.We are in the Pacific Hotel which is fairly central and quite comfortable. Rod stayed here earlier and booked a room for us.
The view from our hotel room in Hamburg.August 1 Schwarzenbek Hamburg
Rod’s solo tour
After a good night’s dining and sleep I decided the place was OK and that another night in situ might be the way to go. Unfortunately not only was the place fully booked I could not get anything else in town.
Back down the main street I decided that I would check out the place with the cut up firearms in the window. Inside I met a very affable Michael Brandt, who I guess could be described as a master gunsmith. Had a long chat with Michael about the cut up weapons, it seems they are his protest at the way the Germany government treats gun ownership. Leaving that aside he took time to show me quite a number of collectable weapons and his own handmade rifles. Beautiful examples of the gunsmith’s craft. Ended up buying a German police/rescue knife for my son, Joe, after Michael offered me a good deal on it. It is a folding knife that features one-handed operation. An excellent gift for a climbing instructor/guide. This was a bit of luck as I had purchased presents for all my daughters but until then had not found the ideal present for Joe.
That afternoon I headed into Hamburg and back to the hotel I had previously stayed at and where I had booked rooms for Tracey and Pat. They were in the foyer when I arrived (I kept running into these guys). Short story was they were full I so stayed down the road at a much more expensive venue until rooms I had booked for next day were available.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Travemunde to Lauenburg - July 31
Early this morning we arrived in Travemunde on the ferry from Malmo, Sweden. The ferry ride was very good. The ship left Malmo at about 10pm. By the time we watched the departure from up on deck, then had a few very pleasant drinks in the bar, we had a fairly late night. The cabin was surprisingly spacious and very comfortable. We had a very good night's sleep, if a bit short with an early start this morning.
Arriving at Travemunde on the ferry.Tracey and I rode to Lauenburg, back on the Elbe River. Rod has been here before so he rode with us until lunch at Ratzburg then went his own way.
In the first section of the ride, as we were finding our way from the ferry terminal to Lubeck, we had stopped at an intersection to work out which way to go. As has happened many times on our travels, a local rider stopped to offer assistance. He advised us which path to take, and told us there was a free shuttle bus to take us through the tunnel under the river.
On the shuttlebus.Over coffee in a sunny spot in Lubeck we got the map out to plan our route for the day. We decided to ride to the north end of the Ratzburg See and catch a ferry along the lake to Ratzburg.
LubeckWhen we got to the lake we couldn't find the ferry terminal so started riding along the lake shore. This turned out to be the best part of the day's ride, a good gravel track through forest along the lake for about 15km.
The path around Ratzberg See.
Tracey at the top of a steep hill.
Part of our hotel in Lauenburg.One highlight of the day was our second puncture for the whole trip. The Schwalbe tyres have performed outstandingly.
It was a sunny, cool day, and not too windy.
89km today.
Tomorrow we complete our journey to Hamburg.
July 31 Travemunde to Schwarzenbek
Rod’s solo tour
After a good nights kip on the ferry we arrived in Travemunde at first light and headed generally in the direction of Hamburg. In my case I wanted breakfast which proved not such an easy thing to find at that hour. Unsuccessful with a breakfast venue we headed for Ratzberg through winding dirt forest paths along the Ratzberg See, not a quick ride but worth it for the scenery.
On the approaches to Ratzberg we came across a very large Celtic renactment/display/market site but Tracey and Pat were not keen so we kept pushing on.
Separated from Tracey and Pat after they decided to head for Lauenberg where I had already been. I headed for Hamburg via Schwarzenbek. After about 20 kms I found that roadworks had closed the highway and that a considerable backtrack would be needed. Fortunately though the guys manning the barricades let me through so that I had an entire highway to myself, great riding.
In Schwarzenbek I found a really nice hotel (not super cheap) which served up one of the nicest meals I had in Europe.
An after dinner stroll turned up a shop in the main street with an interesting array of cut up rifles and shotguns in the window. I resolved to investigate in the morning.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Helsingborg to Malmo - July 30
Our wedding anniversary.
We had a pretty good night's sleep in the tent at the Raa campground. The wind was already blowing strongly before we got up, and we ate brekky sheltering in the tent.
Our plan for the day was to ride to Malmo, about 60km away. We were booked on the 10pm ferry from Malmo to Travemunde, back in Germany.
We started riding with a very strong headwind. The wind was coming from the front and side so that there was little assistance to be had from riding as a group. It was going to be a long 60km.
After 20km of grinding into the wind we stopped for a coffee in Landskrona, a pleasant old town with a beautiful park. As we were heading into the cafe it started raining.
After a couple of coffees and some very nice cake the rain eased and we headed for the railway station.
Swedish trains are very good, with excellent facilities for bicycles. We arrived in Malmo with plenty of time to have a look around. Tracey found the Tourist Info office, in the station building, and returned with a map and some pointers for a quick tour of Malmo.
It wasn't far out to the ferry terminal so we rode out there first so we knew where to go later. We left our luggage in a locker at the station and rode into town for lunch and a look around. The food was good and significantly cheaper than that in Denmark, with prices more comparable to Australia.
Next to the main square, which is quite impressive, a smaller square called Lilla Torg is lined with interesting old buildings and full of restaurants and people. When we were there there was a transparent squash court set up in the middle of the square.
After a pretty good look around the town centre we retrieved our bikes from where we had locked them and rode out to Vastra Hamnen. On the short ride out there we nearly got blown away, and were very happy with our decision to catch a train from Landskrona.
We found shelter from the wind in a bar on the waterfront with a fantastic view with the huge bridge to Copenhagen in the distance and yachts and sailboards battling the wind.
After a while Rod headed off to look at a U-boat and Tracey and I settled in to use up our kronas. It was a very pleasant afternoon.
We went back into Lilla Torg for dinner at the Steakhouse before meeting Rod at the station and heading out to the ferry terminal.
We had a pretty good night's sleep in the tent at the Raa campground. The wind was already blowing strongly before we got up, and we ate brekky sheltering in the tent.
Our plan for the day was to ride to Malmo, about 60km away. We were booked on the 10pm ferry from Malmo to Travemunde, back in Germany.
We started riding with a very strong headwind. The wind was coming from the front and side so that there was little assistance to be had from riding as a group. It was going to be a long 60km.
After 20km of grinding into the wind we stopped for a coffee in Landskrona, a pleasant old town with a beautiful park. As we were heading into the cafe it started raining.
 |
| The cafe in Landskrona |
After a couple of coffees and some very nice cake the rain eased and we headed for the railway station.
Swedish trains are very good, with excellent facilities for bicycles. We arrived in Malmo with plenty of time to have a look around. Tracey found the Tourist Info office, in the station building, and returned with a map and some pointers for a quick tour of Malmo.
It wasn't far out to the ferry terminal so we rode out there first so we knew where to go later. We left our luggage in a locker at the station and rode into town for lunch and a look around. The food was good and significantly cheaper than that in Denmark, with prices more comparable to Australia.
Next to the main square, which is quite impressive, a smaller square called Lilla Torg is lined with interesting old buildings and full of restaurants and people. When we were there there was a transparent squash court set up in the middle of the square.
After a pretty good look around the town centre we retrieved our bikes from where we had locked them and rode out to Vastra Hamnen. On the short ride out there we nearly got blown away, and were very happy with our decision to catch a train from Landskrona.
We found shelter from the wind in a bar on the waterfront with a fantastic view with the huge bridge to Copenhagen in the distance and yachts and sailboards battling the wind.
After a while Rod headed off to look at a U-boat and Tracey and I settled in to use up our kronas. It was a very pleasant afternoon.
We went back into Lilla Torg for dinner at the Steakhouse before meeting Rod at the station and heading out to the ferry terminal.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Kobenhavn to Helsingborg 29th July
Headed North out of Copenhagen again without any difficulty. The bike lanes are clearly marked, separate from the traffic and they even have their own traffic lights.Good riding following the coast from Copenhagen, a great route mostly bike tracks. Ocean views all the way to Sweden.
We stopped after about 40km to visit the famous Louisiana (Denmark) Museum of Kunst (Art). Before we went in we were very lucky to see a very brave and intelligent little squirrel eating an acorn in a tree just above our heads. We'd never seen one before and he was absolutely gorgeous - just like in the cartoons. Must be that time of year, because Rod also had his first real close up with Euro wildlife in the form of a hedgehog (a first for him).
We pressed on for coffee in an extremely busy Helsingor - a very pretty bustling city packed with tourists. Some great ice-cream to be had also!
We jumped on a ferry to Helsingborg, Sweden. Another lovely town, with a fortress right in town that commands good views of the city & the sea.
We camped the night in a campground on the southern edge of Helsingborg.
We stopped after about 40km to visit the famous Louisiana (Denmark) Museum of Kunst (Art). Before we went in we were very lucky to see a very brave and intelligent little squirrel eating an acorn in a tree just above our heads. We'd never seen one before and he was absolutely gorgeous - just like in the cartoons. Must be that time of year, because Rod also had his first real close up with Euro wildlife in the form of a hedgehog (a first for him).
We pressed on for coffee in an extremely busy Helsingor - a very pretty bustling city packed with tourists. Some great ice-cream to be had also!
We jumped on a ferry to Helsingborg, Sweden. Another lovely town, with a fortress right in town that commands good views of the city & the sea.
We camped the night in a campground on the southern edge of Helsingborg.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Kobenhavn 28th July
Rod arrived at 10 and we set off with our pannier-free bikes to explore Copenhagen - past the famous Tivoli Gardens, through the Old Town Square, which currently has a large digital TV, screening highlights of the World Outgames 2009, and into Nytorv Square, with the Courthouse and gallows platform still in evidence. We cycled along Copenhagen’s busiest streets with hundreds of other cyclists, pedestrians and motor traffic. The Danes have a brilliant system and it appears to work very well, even for semi-confused tourists, stopping to check maps every 2 blocks. The canals that run through the city are lined with palaces, museums and grand public buildings or cafes and filled with yachts, tourist barges and power boats. The city is very busy with Danes & tourists.
We ate our picnic lunch beside the harbour and then visited Princess Mary. Unfortunately, she was otherwise engaged but the young guard promised to give her regards from Oz.
In the middle of the city is the King’s Park. It is a generous, well-used, well-proportioned Renaissance garden - gorgeous spot! - Chess games, children’s (double entendre) puppet shows, a few cafes - a lovely peace-filled place.
We checked out the little “chapel” where Mary & Fred got hitched and were delighted to note that it was bedecked in rainbow colours for the Games. In the distance we could see an unusual tower that wound its way upwards, like a soft-serve ice-cream. It proved to be a climbable tower (25K) with great views over the city. As we climbed back down, the glockenspiel was being played. Rod made into the keyboard room to check it out.
The food in Denmark is excellent, based on an admittedly very small sample. We have found our first skinny cappuccino in Europe & the dishes are more cosmopolitan and modern – more like Oz. In Italy, you eat Italian, in the Czech Republic, you eat Czech, in Austria…. and in Germany…….. Denmark definitely seems less tied to tradition and freer in its culinary offerings. Having said that, it’s also incredibly expensive.
We were very pleased to find a good little Indian restaurant with nice hot curry for K70( only $17). Dinner cost us K313 - $26 each for a hot meal and a beer or wine – great value for Copenhagen. We liked the city. It is a place where you could live & cycle, but not eat!
We ate our picnic lunch beside the harbour and then visited Princess Mary. Unfortunately, she was otherwise engaged but the young guard promised to give her regards from Oz.
In the middle of the city is the King’s Park. It is a generous, well-used, well-proportioned Renaissance garden - gorgeous spot! - Chess games, children’s (double entendre) puppet shows, a few cafes - a lovely peace-filled place.
We checked out the little “chapel” where Mary & Fred got hitched and were delighted to note that it was bedecked in rainbow colours for the Games. In the distance we could see an unusual tower that wound its way upwards, like a soft-serve ice-cream. It proved to be a climbable tower (25K) with great views over the city. As we climbed back down, the glockenspiel was being played. Rod made into the keyboard room to check it out.
The food in Denmark is excellent, based on an admittedly very small sample. We have found our first skinny cappuccino in Europe & the dishes are more cosmopolitan and modern – more like Oz. In Italy, you eat Italian, in the Czech Republic, you eat Czech, in Austria…. and in Germany…….. Denmark definitely seems less tied to tradition and freer in its culinary offerings. Having said that, it’s also incredibly expensive.
We were very pleased to find a good little Indian restaurant with nice hot curry for K70( only $17). Dinner cost us K313 - $26 each for a hot meal and a beer or wine – great value for Copenhagen. We liked the city. It is a place where you could live & cycle, but not eat!
Monday, July 27, 2009
Vordingborg to Kobenhavn July 27th
An early start from our youth hostel saw us in Koge by lunchtime. We had covered the first 60 km quite quickly. The ride was nearly entirely on the reasonably generous shoulder of a regional road - quite pleasant, although the rolling hills were very consistent. Koge is a large (for Denmark) regional city, commuting distance to Kobenhavn. We liked it, especially after the nicest lunch we had eaten in Europe. The elegant 2 storey cafe on a corner of the main square was well patronised & after a delicious omelette, coffee & cake, it was clear why. We complimented the chef and headed off to uncover the library.
In Denmark, the libraries provide free internet access for all. So we spent an hour or so, obtaining info & making bookings for Kobenhavn.
After Koge, the ride remained in built-up areas all the way to our hotel in the centre of the capitol, which we reached with little difficulty. The bike paths in the city were everywhere & even though the traffic was busy, it was a very rideable city.
Our hotel, the Absalon Annex, although very modest, was 750K ($175) per night. This price was inflated because Kobenhavn was hosting the World Outgames & the city & our hotel were crowded with members of the gay community.It was quite adequate, however, and was less than a kilometre from the centre of the city.
We booked in and went looking for something good to eat. Just around the corner there was a string of up-market cafes. We picked one & inspected the menu. We were a little taken aback by the prices and opted to share a hamburger, which cost 119K (E17, Aud $30). The burger was well-presented, generous and came with roasted chat potatoes. Coffee was 25k ($6.25). Body & soul back together, we took a walk through the main train station into the Town Square. Festivities for the day had ended and the areas we walked through had a slightly unsavoury feel, so we headed home for the evening.
About 100km today.
27 July Slagelse to Kobenhagen
Rod’s solo tour
Left Slagelse this morning after some locals gave me the good oil on Roskilde and its Viking attractions. Accordingly I plotted a route that involved a 70km ride through some pleasant Danish rural areas complete with rolling hills and thatched cottages, all very nice but no sun to be seen, still I was thankful that there was no rain either.
Made Roskilde in time for an early lunch and then headed to the much vaunted Viking Dome.
The kindly folk at the ticket office offered to let me store my panniers inside while I took in the sights. The dome featured several actual Viking longboats recovered from bogs and sundry watery graves along with a complete and accurate longboat that was sailed from Ireland to Roskilde where it is now proudly moored. There were many other displays to be seen on boat building and artefacts from the period.
Got a message from Tracey and Pat indicating they would be in Kobenhagen today and as I had that destination also in mind we arranged to hookup again to explore that exceedingly cycle friendly city’s sights.
Tracey and Pat booked into a hotel in the city’s red light district at great expense while I stayed at a campground only a 10k jaunt east of the centre. We would meet up in the morning.
In Denmark, the libraries provide free internet access for all. So we spent an hour or so, obtaining info & making bookings for Kobenhavn.
After Koge, the ride remained in built-up areas all the way to our hotel in the centre of the capitol, which we reached with little difficulty. The bike paths in the city were everywhere & even though the traffic was busy, it was a very rideable city.
Our hotel, the Absalon Annex, although very modest, was 750K ($175) per night. This price was inflated because Kobenhavn was hosting the World Outgames & the city & our hotel were crowded with members of the gay community.It was quite adequate, however, and was less than a kilometre from the centre of the city.
We booked in and went looking for something good to eat. Just around the corner there was a string of up-market cafes. We picked one & inspected the menu. We were a little taken aback by the prices and opted to share a hamburger, which cost 119K (E17, Aud $30). The burger was well-presented, generous and came with roasted chat potatoes. Coffee was 25k ($6.25). Body & soul back together, we took a walk through the main train station into the Town Square. Festivities for the day had ended and the areas we walked through had a slightly unsavoury feel, so we headed home for the evening.
About 100km today.
27 July Slagelse to Kobenhagen
Rod’s solo tour
Left Slagelse this morning after some locals gave me the good oil on Roskilde and its Viking attractions. Accordingly I plotted a route that involved a 70km ride through some pleasant Danish rural areas complete with rolling hills and thatched cottages, all very nice but no sun to be seen, still I was thankful that there was no rain either.
Made Roskilde in time for an early lunch and then headed to the much vaunted Viking Dome.
The kindly folk at the ticket office offered to let me store my panniers inside while I took in the sights. The dome featured several actual Viking longboats recovered from bogs and sundry watery graves along with a complete and accurate longboat that was sailed from Ireland to Roskilde where it is now proudly moored. There were many other displays to be seen on boat building and artefacts from the period.
Got a message from Tracey and Pat indicating they would be in Kobenhagen today and as I had that destination also in mind we arranged to hookup again to explore that exceedingly cycle friendly city’s sights.
Tracey and Pat booked into a hotel in the city’s red light district at great expense while I stayed at a campground only a 10k jaunt east of the centre. We would meet up in the morning.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Puttgarden to Vordingborg - July 26
After a pretty good night's sleep in the tent we packed up quickly as the weather looked threatening. We had a quick look at the "beach" and made our way to the ferry terminal.
These are huge ferries that carry everything from pedestrians to trains. The approach to the terminal resembles the toll booth area on an autobahn. After some initial confusion , we went through the ticket booth with the cars and were directed to wait in lane 1 of about 15. We stood in the cold wind, in our own lane until a few motor bikes joined us.
We could see the ferry arriving and wondered where we were supposed to go next.
While the traffic lights on the queuing lanes were all still red a ferry line man rode over to us on a bike and told us to follow him, which we did. He led the two of us, the only cyclists on our ferry, to board the ferry first before all the motor traffic, and the train!
It was pretty strange riding into the cavernous vehicle deck.
the ferry was quite a few floors high and equipped with at least 3 cafes, as well as duty-free shopping.
45 minutes later we arrived in Denmark. The radfahrers were again well-treated. We were ushered out before any of the other vehicles, with a friehdly smile and a 'gut radfahren'.
We felt a bit like rabbits on an autobahn, knowing what was coming out of the ferry behind us, so we sprinted off pretty sharply. But there was no problem. We just hung to the right until we hit a cycle track.
Our first day of cycling in denmark was great- a tailwind and dedicated cycle tracks virtually the whole way.
Early lunch at a cafe in marilba was very tasty and we managed to get some danish krona. Being sunday, tourist infos were all closed and we had no map, so we relied on the gps map pat had downloaded a few days ago. We hardly needed it because the signage on the roads was so good.
This part of denmark consists of open farmland and low rolling hills . The countryside looks like one of those paintings by thingy - big sky full of dark rolling clouds above waving fields of wheat, with the occasional lighthouse looking silo. As in Germany lots of windfarms are in evidence. Every 10kms or so there is a small town, but at least on sunday, they are very quiet.
We crossed 2 islands and onto a 3rd. The bridge leading to this last island was about 3km long. It was a very interesting day.
We arrived in Vordingborg and booked into the youth hostel after very good bruscetta and wine and beer at the local Italian restaurant.
78km today. 92 km yesterday.
26 July Sonderborg to Slagelse
Rods solo tour
Left Sonderborg this morning and despite early rain managed to avoid a wet packup. Because the Denmark section of this tour was largely unplanned it is even more freewheeling than the earlier part of the tour. Heading for Nyborg today with the days first scenic stop at Augustenborg on the way to Fynshav and the ferry to the Odense Peninsula. Met a German motorcyclist while waiting in the queue to board, we had a coffee together and shot the breeze a little while the ferry made the one hour fjord crossing.
Yachting seems to be huge in this country with sailing vessels occupying every available berth. Sunday morning church bells are the only thing to break the peace and quiet here.
More rain so I pulled into Faaborg while the weather lightened up a little and headed to Odense where I grabbed some lunch.Got here ealier than I thought so decided to head on to Nyborg for the night. I discovered here that my planned ride over the extensive bridge linking the peninsula to the rest of Denmark was not possible as they had not built for cyclists and hence we were not allowed on it. At great expensive I purchased tickets for myself and the trusty steed on a high speed train to Slagelse. Decided that I may well get the crossing behind me and pushed on to Slagelse that day instead of my planned stopover in Nyborg.
These are huge ferries that carry everything from pedestrians to trains. The approach to the terminal resembles the toll booth area on an autobahn. After some initial confusion , we went through the ticket booth with the cars and were directed to wait in lane 1 of about 15. We stood in the cold wind, in our own lane until a few motor bikes joined us.
We could see the ferry arriving and wondered where we were supposed to go next.
While the traffic lights on the queuing lanes were all still red a ferry line man rode over to us on a bike and told us to follow him, which we did. He led the two of us, the only cyclists on our ferry, to board the ferry first before all the motor traffic, and the train!
It was pretty strange riding into the cavernous vehicle deck.
the ferry was quite a few floors high and equipped with at least 3 cafes, as well as duty-free shopping.
45 minutes later we arrived in Denmark. The radfahrers were again well-treated. We were ushered out before any of the other vehicles, with a friehdly smile and a 'gut radfahren'.
We felt a bit like rabbits on an autobahn, knowing what was coming out of the ferry behind us, so we sprinted off pretty sharply. But there was no problem. We just hung to the right until we hit a cycle track.
Our first day of cycling in denmark was great- a tailwind and dedicated cycle tracks virtually the whole way.
Early lunch at a cafe in marilba was very tasty and we managed to get some danish krona. Being sunday, tourist infos were all closed and we had no map, so we relied on the gps map pat had downloaded a few days ago. We hardly needed it because the signage on the roads was so good.
This part of denmark consists of open farmland and low rolling hills . The countryside looks like one of those paintings by thingy - big sky full of dark rolling clouds above waving fields of wheat, with the occasional lighthouse looking silo. As in Germany lots of windfarms are in evidence. Every 10kms or so there is a small town, but at least on sunday, they are very quiet.
We crossed 2 islands and onto a 3rd. The bridge leading to this last island was about 3km long. It was a very interesting day.
We arrived in Vordingborg and booked into the youth hostel after very good bruscetta and wine and beer at the local Italian restaurant.
78km today. 92 km yesterday.
26 July Sonderborg to Slagelse
Rods solo tour
Left Sonderborg this morning and despite early rain managed to avoid a wet packup. Because the Denmark section of this tour was largely unplanned it is even more freewheeling than the earlier part of the tour. Heading for Nyborg today with the days first scenic stop at Augustenborg on the way to Fynshav and the ferry to the Odense Peninsula. Met a German motorcyclist while waiting in the queue to board, we had a coffee together and shot the breeze a little while the ferry made the one hour fjord crossing.
Yachting seems to be huge in this country with sailing vessels occupying every available berth. Sunday morning church bells are the only thing to break the peace and quiet here.
More rain so I pulled into Faaborg while the weather lightened up a little and headed to Odense where I grabbed some lunch.Got here ealier than I thought so decided to head on to Nyborg for the night. I discovered here that my planned ride over the extensive bridge linking the peninsula to the rest of Denmark was not possible as they had not built for cyclists and hence we were not allowed on it. At great expensive I purchased tickets for myself and the trusty steed on a high speed train to Slagelse. Decided that I may well get the crossing behind me and pushed on to Slagelse that day instead of my planned stopover in Nyborg.
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Wismar to Puttgarden 25th July
Up at 5.30, breakfast at 6.00, on the road just after 7.00. The weather forecast was pretty dire (winds & rain)and we had a train to catch 70 km down an unknown road.
It rained from the start, but fine drizzle for the most part- but importantly no wind.
Again the scenery was green green, with occasional ocean vistas among the rolling farmlands.
We were thoroughly soaked by the time we stopped for coffee at the 35km mark at a charming framhouse (hofladen).
Another 30km through small villages & farmland brought us to Priwall, where we caught the ferry to Travemunde. I purchased my ticket at the machine, looked around to see Pat ready at his bike & proceeded onto our largest ferry yet. I turned to remark on the amazing harbour scene and Pat was nowhere to be seen. He had dilly-dallied and missed the ferry. Luckily they run about every 5 minutes - the volume of traffic in this part of Germany is big.
We had not researched the trip from when we left the Elbe & Travemunde was just a small faint name on the map. But it is an amazing place. The harbour is many km long - I'd say at least 10. It is packed with every kind of shipping from weekend trailer-sailers to cruise ships, big ferries, olde worlde 4 masters and cargo vessels. We ahd booked a night on a ferry back from Sweden & enquired where the carrier was - "5km further down the foreshore". Travemende is also a major holiday destination' with every kind of amusement (bouncing machines, beach games, merry-go-rounds) and food stand (great big tubs od various sweets & big bowls of fruit puch in all different flavours). The beaches have 1000's of these 2-seater stripy cane seats, which apparently you can rent for the season. And needless to say there were 1000's of people to match this setting.
We pushed on to Timmendorfer Strand & caught the train to Puttgarden - at the very top of Germany on the island of Fehmarn. We decided to find accommodation in Germany (it almost feels like home now). But as with the rest of Nthn Germany, they had a wine festival on so not a bed was to be found. After practically crossing the island, we headed for the ever-faithful campground and a had a meal in their restaurant.
25 July Hamburg to Sonderborg (Denmark)
Rod's solo tour
Jumped on a train this morning at Hamburg's Hauptbarnhoff (a large and busy rail hub) to Padbourg on the border of Germany and Denmark. Arrived early afternoon, raining and with no local currency I made a beeline for a bank to get cashed up. With the admin. complete I grabbed a quick lunch and headed for Sonderborg.
The weather improved immediately as I pushed through rolling green hills beside a fjord with a perfect tail wind and a sky that was picturebook blue with big white puffy clouds.
On the way was Dansk Slande IV the site of a Danish fort destroyed in 1864 in a war with their neighbours (Germany). This conflict seems to have been a major turning point for Denmark in the way it viewed the world.
All the Danes so far have spoke perfect English which made it easy to find a camping spot in Sonderborg, which turned out to be very quiet with good amenities. A pleasant after pasta walk took me along the waterfront and finished a nice days touring.
It rained from the start, but fine drizzle for the most part- but importantly no wind.
Again the scenery was green green, with occasional ocean vistas among the rolling farmlands.
We were thoroughly soaked by the time we stopped for coffee at the 35km mark at a charming framhouse (hofladen).
Another 30km through small villages & farmland brought us to Priwall, where we caught the ferry to Travemunde. I purchased my ticket at the machine, looked around to see Pat ready at his bike & proceeded onto our largest ferry yet. I turned to remark on the amazing harbour scene and Pat was nowhere to be seen. He had dilly-dallied and missed the ferry. Luckily they run about every 5 minutes - the volume of traffic in this part of Germany is big.
We had not researched the trip from when we left the Elbe & Travemunde was just a small faint name on the map. But it is an amazing place. The harbour is many km long - I'd say at least 10. It is packed with every kind of shipping from weekend trailer-sailers to cruise ships, big ferries, olde worlde 4 masters and cargo vessels. We ahd booked a night on a ferry back from Sweden & enquired where the carrier was - "5km further down the foreshore". Travemende is also a major holiday destination' with every kind of amusement (bouncing machines, beach games, merry-go-rounds) and food stand (great big tubs od various sweets & big bowls of fruit puch in all different flavours). The beaches have 1000's of these 2-seater stripy cane seats, which apparently you can rent for the season. And needless to say there were 1000's of people to match this setting.
We pushed on to Timmendorfer Strand & caught the train to Puttgarden - at the very top of Germany on the island of Fehmarn. We decided to find accommodation in Germany (it almost feels like home now). But as with the rest of Nthn Germany, they had a wine festival on so not a bed was to be found. After practically crossing the island, we headed for the ever-faithful campground and a had a meal in their restaurant.
25 July Hamburg to Sonderborg (Denmark)
Rod's solo tour
Jumped on a train this morning at Hamburg's Hauptbarnhoff (a large and busy rail hub) to Padbourg on the border of Germany and Denmark. Arrived early afternoon, raining and with no local currency I made a beeline for a bank to get cashed up. With the admin. complete I grabbed a quick lunch and headed for Sonderborg.
The weather improved immediately as I pushed through rolling green hills beside a fjord with a perfect tail wind and a sky that was picturebook blue with big white puffy clouds.
On the way was Dansk Slande IV the site of a Danish fort destroyed in 1864 in a war with their neighbours (Germany). This conflict seems to have been a major turning point for Denmark in the way it viewed the world.
All the Danes so far have spoke perfect English which made it easy to find a camping spot in Sonderborg, which turned out to be very quiet with good amenities. A pleasant after pasta walk took me along the waterfront and finished a nice days touring.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Wismar 23rd & 24th July
Thursday
We spent a lazy morning having a nice brekky and catching up on housekeeping.
At lunch-time, we rode into town (pretty good cycle paths but the centre of town is heavily cobbled - note to self-always stand up on badly cobbled streets), visited Tourist Info, did some shoppping, grabbed a bratwurst and walked down to the harbour in time to catch the 2pm boat trip around Wismar's harbour and nearby islands. It was a nice, relaxing trip. Wismar has an extremely busy harbour with really, really big sheds - the biggest roller-door you've ever seen, and an authentic historical maritime feel. Wismar was one of the original 'hanseatic' cities.
Back on land, we toured the extraordinary old Dom. It was really impressive - the brickwork and original frescoes and carved altar, dating back to the 13th Century, conveyed the sophistication of art and life at that time. It was totally different to most of the grandly decorated doms and basilicas.
The town square is lively and the whole town is bustling with holiday-makers. It is school holidays in many parts of Germany at present.
Coffee and cake at Guhlick's Cafe - a new cafe hidden away in the back streets and busy with local custom.
We continued investigating the town centre until a sudden storm forced us to retreat into a nearby restaurant. After a beer (pilsener and alster - alster is German for a shandy), we opted for an early dinner and a quick ride home in the light aftermath of the storm.
Friday
We spent a couple of hours blogging and researching our planned diversion to Denmark and Sweden. We had lunch at Guhlick's again and our waitress was a lovely girl, named Anna, who was very plaesed to have run into a couple of Aussies. She has had 2 trips to Oz so far and plans more. Hi Anna!
For the last couple of days I've noticed my bike seems to wobble ever so slightly when I'm wheeling it. No broken spokes and the wheels weren't buckled. Finally, Pat tried wheeling it and twigged immediately that the ball-bearings in the handlebar stem were worn out. Again, we were lucky, the nearby bike shop could do an immediate repair (E40 for new bearings fitted). Maybe this could be the bike-shop tour of Europe.
The weather forecast for tomorrow is a bit dire, so we're planning a very early start (for us).
23rd and 24th Hamburg
Rod's solo tour
From what you hear you would be forgiven for thinking that Hamburg is just a large industrial city when in fact it is an extremely vibrant and livable city with it's own culture.
Booked into a couple of hostels (two because the city was too busy to get more than one night in once place) in St. Pauli, home of the squatter movement. I spent a couple of days visiting the sights. The city has an amazing waterfront, lots of waterfront infrastructure stretching into the distance but it manages to remain an attractive precinct with lots to see. Went aboard the restored square rigger the Rickmer Rickmers, a great look at seafaring in the days when sailors were sailors. Visited the extensive finger wharves, some of the longest in the world, but most were destroyed in WW2 and rebuilt.
We spent a lazy morning having a nice brekky and catching up on housekeeping.
At lunch-time, we rode into town (pretty good cycle paths but the centre of town is heavily cobbled - note to self-always stand up on badly cobbled streets), visited Tourist Info, did some shoppping, grabbed a bratwurst and walked down to the harbour in time to catch the 2pm boat trip around Wismar's harbour and nearby islands. It was a nice, relaxing trip. Wismar has an extremely busy harbour with really, really big sheds - the biggest roller-door you've ever seen, and an authentic historical maritime feel. Wismar was one of the original 'hanseatic' cities.
Back on land, we toured the extraordinary old Dom. It was really impressive - the brickwork and original frescoes and carved altar, dating back to the 13th Century, conveyed the sophistication of art and life at that time. It was totally different to most of the grandly decorated doms and basilicas.
The town square is lively and the whole town is bustling with holiday-makers. It is school holidays in many parts of Germany at present.
Coffee and cake at Guhlick's Cafe - a new cafe hidden away in the back streets and busy with local custom.
We continued investigating the town centre until a sudden storm forced us to retreat into a nearby restaurant. After a beer (pilsener and alster - alster is German for a shandy), we opted for an early dinner and a quick ride home in the light aftermath of the storm.
Friday
We spent a couple of hours blogging and researching our planned diversion to Denmark and Sweden. We had lunch at Guhlick's again and our waitress was a lovely girl, named Anna, who was very plaesed to have run into a couple of Aussies. She has had 2 trips to Oz so far and plans more. Hi Anna!
For the last couple of days I've noticed my bike seems to wobble ever so slightly when I'm wheeling it. No broken spokes and the wheels weren't buckled. Finally, Pat tried wheeling it and twigged immediately that the ball-bearings in the handlebar stem were worn out. Again, we were lucky, the nearby bike shop could do an immediate repair (E40 for new bearings fitted). Maybe this could be the bike-shop tour of Europe.
The weather forecast for tomorrow is a bit dire, so we're planning a very early start (for us).
23rd and 24th Hamburg
Rod's solo tour
From what you hear you would be forgiven for thinking that Hamburg is just a large industrial city when in fact it is an extremely vibrant and livable city with it's own culture.
Booked into a couple of hostels (two because the city was too busy to get more than one night in once place) in St. Pauli, home of the squatter movement. I spent a couple of days visiting the sights. The city has an amazing waterfront, lots of waterfront infrastructure stretching into the distance but it manages to remain an attractive precinct with lots to see. Went aboard the restored square rigger the Rickmer Rickmers, a great look at seafaring in the days when sailors were sailors. Visited the extensive finger wharves, some of the longest in the world, but most were destroyed in WW2 and rebuilt.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Seehof to Wismar - July 22
We packed up our tent, left our luggage at the campground reception and caught the bus back into Schwerin. The bus was packed with out of town tourists and getting a ticket was a long and complicated exercise. Once everyone was finally seated a posse of three ticket inspectors swooped and managed to catch an old lady without the right ticket, and she was fined.
Tourist Info in Schwerin found a hotel in Wismar (32 km away on the coast) with a vacancy and we booked it.
With that organised we took in the sights of Schwerin.
Without doubt the schloss on the island next to the city centre is the most spectacular castle we have seen, and we have seen a few.
Surrounded by water and boasting numerous turrets and spires of various designs, it looks fairy-tale like.
The gardens were looking especially splendid because of the BUGA.
The town of Schwerin itself is a lovely place with many cobbled streets, mediaeval and renaissance buildings and a very large cathedral.
The brickwork in these northern German cities is outstanding.
Because we had to ride on to Wismar today, we weren't prepared to spend the €32 for the short time we would have had in the garden show - a bit of a shame.
After a bratworst lunch in the town square we caught the bus back out to Seehof, and with light rain falling we got changed, loaded the bikes, collected Tracey's lost watch (which had been handed in to reception!) and headed for Wismar.
The rain was only light and the bike track was beautiful, winding through forests, at times deep and dark, at times Sherwood-like.
The path was largely paved and under a leafy canopy (the mediaeval fish merchants planted trees to cover the roads to keep the catch cool).
Despite out previous two big days of riding, fears of saddle soreness were unfounded.
Our hotel at Wismar, the Bertramshof (€62/dbl with brekky) was pleasant and clean and about 2km from the town centre.
33km today.
22nd July Alt Garge to Hamburg
Rod's solo tour
Left Alt Garge early for the last leg into Hamburg on what I thought was going to be an easy day. I had gone only about five clicks when I lost another spoke which caused the back wheel to buckle quite badly but as luck would have it I again found a bike shop with a few ks. While the bike shop put in a new spoke and trued the wheel up it poured rain, every cloud has a silver lining. Back on the road about 10 o'clock and heading for Lauenberg. Really pretty old town with some significant Elbe River ship building industry on the outskirts. Met an Aussie motorcyclists who spotted my Australia riding top, he had ridden from Korea through Russia and was also ending his tour in Hamburg.
Had a cup of very average coffee and headed for Hamburg. I picked the wrong side of the river and ended up mud running for at least two hours, the bike was an absolute mess and I wasn't much better. Some of the forest tracks were pretty and where the branches met overhead it was reasonably dry.
Reached Hamburg covered in mud and took the first accommodation I came to, a pretty average equivalent of the Aussie Formula One chain.
Tourist Info in Schwerin found a hotel in Wismar (32 km away on the coast) with a vacancy and we booked it.
With that organised we took in the sights of Schwerin.
Without doubt the schloss on the island next to the city centre is the most spectacular castle we have seen, and we have seen a few.
Surrounded by water and boasting numerous turrets and spires of various designs, it looks fairy-tale like.
The gardens were looking especially splendid because of the BUGA.
The town of Schwerin itself is a lovely place with many cobbled streets, mediaeval and renaissance buildings and a very large cathedral.
The brickwork in these northern German cities is outstanding.
Because we had to ride on to Wismar today, we weren't prepared to spend the €32 for the short time we would have had in the garden show - a bit of a shame.
After a bratworst lunch in the town square we caught the bus back out to Seehof, and with light rain falling we got changed, loaded the bikes, collected Tracey's lost watch (which had been handed in to reception!) and headed for Wismar.
The rain was only light and the bike track was beautiful, winding through forests, at times deep and dark, at times Sherwood-like.
The path was largely paved and under a leafy canopy (the mediaeval fish merchants planted trees to cover the roads to keep the catch cool).
Despite out previous two big days of riding, fears of saddle soreness were unfounded.
Our hotel at Wismar, the Bertramshof (€62/dbl with brekky) was pleasant and clean and about 2km from the town centre.
33km today.
22nd July Alt Garge to Hamburg
Rod's solo tour
Left Alt Garge early for the last leg into Hamburg on what I thought was going to be an easy day. I had gone only about five clicks when I lost another spoke which caused the back wheel to buckle quite badly but as luck would have it I again found a bike shop with a few ks. While the bike shop put in a new spoke and trued the wheel up it poured rain, every cloud has a silver lining. Back on the road about 10 o'clock and heading for Lauenberg. Really pretty old town with some significant Elbe River ship building industry on the outskirts. Met an Aussie motorcyclists who spotted my Australia riding top, he had ridden from Korea through Russia and was also ending his tour in Hamburg.
Had a cup of very average coffee and headed for Hamburg. I picked the wrong side of the river and ended up mud running for at least two hours, the bike was an absolute mess and I wasn't much better. Some of the forest tracks were pretty and where the branches met overhead it was reasonably dry.
Reached Hamburg covered in mud and took the first accommodation I came to, a pretty average equivalent of the Aussie Formula One chain.
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Wittenberge to Seehof 21st July
After an outstanding fruhstuck (brekky) consisting of plates of:-
*tomato, ziegerkase, chives & basil
*dip-covered cucumber, prosciutto & cheese
*mushroom, capsicum & vegetable omelette
*berry yoguty topped with bean sprouits
*german bread roll & jam
*2 cups of brewed coffee
*orange juice
EACH,
we bought a map & took to the road in high spirits (as you do after a brekky like that). I just hope I haven´t put on too much weight.
A sunny day saw us cover 43 km before our first stop at Grabow for a light lunch. On th eway ro Grabow we had taken the more direct on-road route for about 20 km. It was most unpleasant, carrying high speed trucks & cars, as well as the dreaded caravans & B double hay trucks. The rest of the track was paved dedicated cycle track often pasing through leafy forests.
Bird-life is abundantr in Germany. Great flocks of small birds, as weæll as geese & ducks abound. Fora while today we were on the goose radweg.
Another 10 km brought us to Ludwigslust - another quaint German town, with a grand & imposing schloss. The countryside is forested and verdant.
When the odometer clicked over about 98 km & we thought our ride was coming to an end, we stopped at a lakeside pub for a beer. The ride into Schwerin was spectacular - åast parkland, Schwerin See beaches, swans in situ & a great castle in the middle of the lake.
It was great until qwe ran into a recently constructed barricade on the path. This added another 3km to our trip into town & after 100 this was irritating.
we finally arrived at Tourist Info in the town square at 6.15pm, having ridden about 112km. Th tourist info advised us that there was no hope of finding accommodation in Schwerin or anywhere nearby as the Bundesgartenschau 09 (BUGA) had packed the place out.This went down like a lead balloon. Our onlæy optio wa to ride another 11km to a very crowded campgroung. As it turned out the campgrounf was well run & organised. We set up camp, showered & enjoyed a tasty meal at thjeir restaurant. A big day!
115km today.
21st July Wittenberge to Alt Garge
Rod's solo tour
Had a good camp last night, paid 5 euro to the Harbour master to camp on some land near the marina. Left Tracey and Pat this morning as they decided to head for Schwerin (see above blog) and I stuck to my original goal of Hamburg. I made a beeline for Lenzen for breakfast ingredients and took my purchases down to the Elbe for brekkie on the banks. The morning was a magical morning for riding although as the day progressed a busy little headwind gave me a bit of curry.
Had lunch at Neu Dachau beside the Marina, the computer showed just over 100 for the day but as it was still early I pushed on for a bit to Alt Garge where I stumbled on a nice campground in a biosphere. Was not here long when a Swiss couple I had run into previously rode in, we all jumped into the pool for a rather bracing swim before brewing up some pasta for the evening meal.
*tomato, ziegerkase, chives & basil
*dip-covered cucumber, prosciutto & cheese
*mushroom, capsicum & vegetable omelette
*berry yoguty topped with bean sprouits
*german bread roll & jam
*2 cups of brewed coffee
*orange juice
EACH,
we bought a map & took to the road in high spirits (as you do after a brekky like that). I just hope I haven´t put on too much weight.
A sunny day saw us cover 43 km before our first stop at Grabow for a light lunch. On th eway ro Grabow we had taken the more direct on-road route for about 20 km. It was most unpleasant, carrying high speed trucks & cars, as well as the dreaded caravans & B double hay trucks. The rest of the track was paved dedicated cycle track often pasing through leafy forests.
Bird-life is abundantr in Germany. Great flocks of small birds, as weæll as geese & ducks abound. Fora while today we were on the goose radweg.
Another 10 km brought us to Ludwigslust - another quaint German town, with a grand & imposing schloss. The countryside is forested and verdant.
When the odometer clicked over about 98 km & we thought our ride was coming to an end, we stopped at a lakeside pub for a beer. The ride into Schwerin was spectacular - åast parkland, Schwerin See beaches, swans in situ & a great castle in the middle of the lake.
It was great until qwe ran into a recently constructed barricade on the path. This added another 3km to our trip into town & after 100 this was irritating.
we finally arrived at Tourist Info in the town square at 6.15pm, having ridden about 112km. Th tourist info advised us that there was no hope of finding accommodation in Schwerin or anywhere nearby as the Bundesgartenschau 09 (BUGA) had packed the place out.This went down like a lead balloon. Our onlæy optio wa to ride another 11km to a very crowded campgroung. As it turned out the campgrounf was well run & organised. We set up camp, showered & enjoyed a tasty meal at thjeir restaurant. A big day!
115km today.
21st July Wittenberge to Alt Garge
Rod's solo tour
Had a good camp last night, paid 5 euro to the Harbour master to camp on some land near the marina. Left Tracey and Pat this morning as they decided to head for Schwerin (see above blog) and I stuck to my original goal of Hamburg. I made a beeline for Lenzen for breakfast ingredients and took my purchases down to the Elbe for brekkie on the banks. The morning was a magical morning for riding although as the day progressed a busy little headwind gave me a bit of curry.
Had lunch at Neu Dachau beside the Marina, the computer showed just over 100 for the day but as it was still early I pushed on for a bit to Alt Garge where I stumbled on a nice campground in a biosphere. Was not here long when a Swiss couple I had run into previously rode in, we all jumped into the pool for a rather bracing swim before brewing up some pasta for the evening meal.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Kellerweil (near Bittkau) to Wittenberge 20th July
Another rainy day - we delayed lweaving until after 10, when the rain stopped. We hopped, skipped & jumped all morning with 2 dutch cycling couples - Annet & Heert, especially. We all stopped at Tangemunde bike shop - Rod had brokrn another spoke after hitting a big bump the day before. I was æeading & didn't see it as I was trying to decipher the radweg sign. All 3 of us thumped through it! The cycle path winds around & although the GERMAN SIGNAGE IS PRETTY GOOD, IT'S EASY TO misread or miss a sign. Tangemunde was also a welcome coffe stop & a picturesque town.
We stopped to buy groceries & get lunch (so did Heert & annet) & found a picnic table - not mucj fun today as it was about to storm.
As we ate the wind got stronger & stronger & shortly after we hit the road, we were drenched with driving rain slanting horizontally, into all exposed orifices.
We took shelter under a tree until the worst was past. A little further on, Annet & Heert & another couple were enjoying a good lunch at a village cafe (Buttersdorf).
We joined them for coffee & cake.
They intended stopping at Havelberg. We aimed at a bit further on. We all took the ferry across the Elbe. No sooner had we made the decision to push on when a nasty headwind & large black storm clouds apppeared. The path took us along a long narrow island, between the Elbe & Havel rivers - a lovely ridf in good weather, but we weren,t so lucky. We hasd a fairly solid headwind crosswind & another fierce storm. Aghain, we sheltered under trees until the worst of it had passed.
Topwards the end of the day we spotte yet another stork's nest with babies being fed by Mum.
Another hour's ride saw us in Wittenberge. Despite the weather Rod was determined to camp. we stayed in Pension Goldenen Ankor ( E50 Mit Fr), while Rod found a beauitiful spot on a small peninsular ion the Elbe & adjacent to the local yachy club, where we all eenjoyed a very ngood dinner.
We stopped to buy groceries & get lunch (so did Heert & annet) & found a picnic table - not mucj fun today as it was about to storm.
As we ate the wind got stronger & stronger & shortly after we hit the road, we were drenched with driving rain slanting horizontally, into all exposed orifices.
We took shelter under a tree until the worst was past. A little further on, Annet & Heert & another couple were enjoying a good lunch at a village cafe (Buttersdorf).
We joined them for coffee & cake.
They intended stopping at Havelberg. We aimed at a bit further on. We all took the ferry across the Elbe. No sooner had we made the decision to push on when a nasty headwind & large black storm clouds apppeared. The path took us along a long narrow island, between the Elbe & Havel rivers - a lovely ridf in good weather, but we weren,t so lucky. We hasd a fairly solid headwind crosswind & another fierce storm. Aghain, we sheltered under trees until the worst of it had passed.
Topwards the end of the day we spotte yet another stork's nest with babies being fed by Mum.
Another hour's ride saw us in Wittenberge. Despite the weather Rod was determined to camp. we stayed in Pension Goldenen Ankor ( E50 Mit Fr), while Rod found a beauitiful spot on a small peninsular ion the Elbe & adjacent to the local yachy club, where we all eenjoyed a very ngood dinner.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Berlin to Magdeborg to Kellerweil (near Bittkau) 19th July
We caught the 9.30 train from the Zoologischer Station in Berlin, back to Magdeborg, where the bikes waited.
Today's ride was fairly idyllic - paved cycle paths, through forests and grasslands. Our first stop was at the Elbe 'land canal' - an extraordinary feat of engineering. To allow shipping to travel across the Elbe, the Germans have built a canal, complete with locks, which is suspended up in the air.
Our ride took us along this structure for some kilometres and we were lucky to come upon a large cargo barge negotiating one of the locks. When the water levels had equalised, the lock gates quickly disappeared underwater and, presumably, into the canal strycture. It was quite an effortless operation for everyone involved.
More gorgeous countryside and we arrived at Kellerweil Campground, where, despite the rain, we had a convivial meal at the camp restaurant and chatted with a few Dutch cycle touring couples.
The campground was beside a small lake, which had a generous supply of birds and frogs - a pretty place.
We did 57km today.
Today's ride was fairly idyllic - paved cycle paths, through forests and grasslands. Our first stop was at the Elbe 'land canal' - an extraordinary feat of engineering. To allow shipping to travel across the Elbe, the Germans have built a canal, complete with locks, which is suspended up in the air.
Our ride took us along this structure for some kilometres and we were lucky to come upon a large cargo barge negotiating one of the locks. When the water levels had equalised, the lock gates quickly disappeared underwater and, presumably, into the canal strycture. It was quite an effortless operation for everyone involved.
More gorgeous countryside and we arrived at Kellerweil Campground, where, despite the rain, we had a convivial meal at the camp restaurant and chatted with a few Dutch cycle touring couples.
The campground was beside a small lake, which had a generous supply of birds and frogs - a pretty place.
We did 57km today.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Berlin 16th, 17th & 18th July
16th July
We headed into the Reichstag, which is an imposing structure, but as the line to climb the dome was miles long, we decided to skip it. Roughly following Lonely Planet's walking tour took us to:-
*the historic Brandenburger Tor & Pariser Platz, boundary between East & West Germany & now surrounded by the major embassies.
*Unter Den Linden, Berlin's Champs Elysee, with its grand hotels and department stores, which sport their own art & futuristic attractions.
* the infamous Checkpoint Charlie.
* the Gendarmenmarkt, a beautiful if somewhat impersonal square, bounded by the opera house, Konzerthaus, & imposing German & French Huguenot churches. There was a great historical exhibit in the Deutscher Dom.
* Bebelplatz, where the Nazis burnt all the books, is also bounded by beautiful buildings and statues.
*Deutsches Historiches Museum, a large museum (they all are in Europe) with an extremely moving photographic display about the construction and fall of the wall, Napoleon's hat & sword, ancient armour & heaps more.
* Pergamon Museum, which contained outstanding displays from antiquity, most notably Ishtar's Gate, the Pergamon Altar & the Market Gate of Miletus. All of these exhibits are huge, detailed & awesome. The originals have been transported & reconstructed inside the museum.
* The Berliner Dom, Berlin's imposing Cathredal - but they wanted E7 p.p. for entry. After all the fabulous cathedrals we have seen throughout Europe for free, we weren't about to start paying to get into them. This area, situated right beside the Spree River, proved very expensive for any kind of refreshment as well.
A big but most interesting day.
17th July
Today, we all wanted to head straight for some of the more serious & contemporary historical sites in Berlin, so we headed for the Berliner Mauer War Memorial, which proved both fascinating & moving. Families ,streets, communities, clubs, neighbours, parishioners, cemeteries, you name it, split asunder in one fell stroke.
Next, we visited Potsdamer Platz, which we can totally recommend. We wandered around taking in the sites, before Rod & I bought ourselves a ride in a Tesla (my namesake), a very very fast & flash new electric sportscar - 0-100 kph in 3.9 secs. And we did this on the six lane road running up the middle of the Tiergarten. They wouldn't admit to having paid off the police, but I'm pretty suspicious. The racing car driver insisted he had to drive! Spoilsport! I love this car.
Meanwhile, Pat had chosen to ride the fastest elevator in the world to the Panorama Observation Deck to get the scenic view over Berlin.
Potsdamer Platz is a great spot for people-watching & just hanging about. There's lots of activity, new products on display & an Aussie pub cum cafe, which serves COLD beer and nice food, including kangaroo & crocodile if that's what you're into. We settled into the pub for a few beers, a good meal & a spell.
Reluctantly leaving a most enjoyable time at Potsdamer Platz, we headed towards town to visit the Holocaust Memorial. It is a labrynthine-like modern art memorial to the victims. After a security check, we toured the underground museum - a sad reminder of Berlin's troubled history.
While we were in the museum, a storm had developed, so we took shelter in a nearby cafe for a while, before heading out to the Ku'damm - an extensive shopping precinct, for a look around. On a foray the previous evening,Rod had discoverd this lively area with it's bombed out church, performance artists & market stalls.
Weariness had set in, so Pat & I jumped on a bus for a quick look at Charlottenburg Castle & headed home, via a very authentic Berlin beer garden at one end of the Tiergarten. Rod continued enjoying the Ku'damm area for a while longer.
18th July
By now, we had had a pretty good look at Berlin, so we headed into the city to check out some of the quainter quarters. First, we visited the jewish quarter, the Scheunviertel, with it's synagogues & cafes. Then, we headed past the staue of Marx & Engels to the Nikolaiviertel - which we thought was a bit of a tourist trap with its expensive cafes.
After lunch, Rod headed off to look at the largest building on the planet??? at the airport while Pat & I did a little shopping & headed back to the hostel.
We headed into the Reichstag, which is an imposing structure, but as the line to climb the dome was miles long, we decided to skip it. Roughly following Lonely Planet's walking tour took us to:-
*the historic Brandenburger Tor & Pariser Platz, boundary between East & West Germany & now surrounded by the major embassies.
*Unter Den Linden, Berlin's Champs Elysee, with its grand hotels and department stores, which sport their own art & futuristic attractions.
* the infamous Checkpoint Charlie.
* the Gendarmenmarkt, a beautiful if somewhat impersonal square, bounded by the opera house, Konzerthaus, & imposing German & French Huguenot churches. There was a great historical exhibit in the Deutscher Dom.
* Bebelplatz, where the Nazis burnt all the books, is also bounded by beautiful buildings and statues.
*Deutsches Historiches Museum, a large museum (they all are in Europe) with an extremely moving photographic display about the construction and fall of the wall, Napoleon's hat & sword, ancient armour & heaps more.
* Pergamon Museum, which contained outstanding displays from antiquity, most notably Ishtar's Gate, the Pergamon Altar & the Market Gate of Miletus. All of these exhibits are huge, detailed & awesome. The originals have been transported & reconstructed inside the museum.
* The Berliner Dom, Berlin's imposing Cathredal - but they wanted E7 p.p. for entry. After all the fabulous cathedrals we have seen throughout Europe for free, we weren't about to start paying to get into them. This area, situated right beside the Spree River, proved very expensive for any kind of refreshment as well.
A big but most interesting day.
17th July
Today, we all wanted to head straight for some of the more serious & contemporary historical sites in Berlin, so we headed for the Berliner Mauer War Memorial, which proved both fascinating & moving. Families ,streets, communities, clubs, neighbours, parishioners, cemeteries, you name it, split asunder in one fell stroke.
Next, we visited Potsdamer Platz, which we can totally recommend. We wandered around taking in the sites, before Rod & I bought ourselves a ride in a Tesla (my namesake), a very very fast & flash new electric sportscar - 0-100 kph in 3.9 secs. And we did this on the six lane road running up the middle of the Tiergarten. They wouldn't admit to having paid off the police, but I'm pretty suspicious. The racing car driver insisted he had to drive! Spoilsport! I love this car.
Meanwhile, Pat had chosen to ride the fastest elevator in the world to the Panorama Observation Deck to get the scenic view over Berlin.
Potsdamer Platz is a great spot for people-watching & just hanging about. There's lots of activity, new products on display & an Aussie pub cum cafe, which serves COLD beer and nice food, including kangaroo & crocodile if that's what you're into. We settled into the pub for a few beers, a good meal & a spell.
Reluctantly leaving a most enjoyable time at Potsdamer Platz, we headed towards town to visit the Holocaust Memorial. It is a labrynthine-like modern art memorial to the victims. After a security check, we toured the underground museum - a sad reminder of Berlin's troubled history.
While we were in the museum, a storm had developed, so we took shelter in a nearby cafe for a while, before heading out to the Ku'damm - an extensive shopping precinct, for a look around. On a foray the previous evening,Rod had discoverd this lively area with it's bombed out church, performance artists & market stalls.
Weariness had set in, so Pat & I jumped on a bus for a quick look at Charlottenburg Castle & headed home, via a very authentic Berlin beer garden at one end of the Tiergarten. Rod continued enjoying the Ku'damm area for a while longer.
18th July
By now, we had had a pretty good look at Berlin, so we headed into the city to check out some of the quainter quarters. First, we visited the jewish quarter, the Scheunviertel, with it's synagogues & cafes. Then, we headed past the staue of Marx & Engels to the Nikolaiviertel - which we thought was a bit of a tourist trap with its expensive cafes.
After lunch, Rod headed off to look at the largest building on the planet??? at the airport while Pat & I did a little shopping & headed back to the hostel.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Magdeborg to Berlin 15th July
Our train deposited us at Zoologischer Station a little before midday. We had some time to kill before we could book into the hostel, so we jumped on a 100 bus and did a quick tour of the Berlin sights.
Disembarking at Alexanderplatz, we had a brisk stroll and quickly located the gourmet food section underneath the nearby Galeries Lafayette.
Alexanderplatz, itself, is pretty ordinary - reflecting its GDR history. Strolling along one of Berlin's main streets, we came across our first war and holocaust memorial - a statue entitled "Trains to Life - Trains to Death".
Tired of lugging our panniers, we headed out to our hostel (JGH Mitte), which was about 20 minutes on the train from the centre. At first glance, Berlin seems very multi-cultural and interesting.
"Trains to Life - Trains to Death"
Disembarking at Alexanderplatz, we had a brisk stroll and quickly located the gourmet food section underneath the nearby Galeries Lafayette.
Alexanderplatz, itself, is pretty ordinary - reflecting its GDR history. Strolling along one of Berlin's main streets, we came across our first war and holocaust memorial - a statue entitled "Trains to Life - Trains to Death".
Tired of lugging our panniers, we headed out to our hostel (JGH Mitte), which was about 20 minutes on the train from the centre. At first glance, Berlin seems very multi-cultural and interesting.
"Trains to Life - Trains to Death"Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Magdeburg 14th July
A good solid breakfast to start the day! Pat & I opted to spent the next 3 hours on the internet trying to find accommodation in Berlin - a very frustrating task as it turned out. We ended up booking a triple room at a relatively central JGH (Youth Hostel).
Rod took the smrter option & took a 2 hour bus/boat trip through t he sights og Magdeburg.
We all met up for lunch at the incredible New Green Citadel, built by Hundertwasser. Rod having seen the city, Pat & I toured the Dom & major points of interest. Magdeburg is really quite a beautiful city with open spaces, lots of interesting public sculptures & a magnificent gothic Dom - good cycle paths too. Its a middle-sized city & seems to be thriving.
Later in the afternoon, we took the opportunity to spend a few hours trying to update our blogsite and finished the day with a very nice meal at an Italian restaurant..
Rod took the smrter option & took a 2 hour bus/boat trip through t he sights og Magdeburg.
We all met up for lunch at the incredible New Green Citadel, built by Hundertwasser. Rod having seen the city, Pat & I toured the Dom & major points of interest. Magdeburg is really quite a beautiful city with open spaces, lots of interesting public sculptures & a magnificent gothic Dom - good cycle paths too. Its a middle-sized city & seems to be thriving.
Later in the afternoon, we took the opportunity to spend a few hours trying to update our blogsite and finished the day with a very nice meal at an Italian restaurant..
Monday, July 13, 2009
Steckby/Barby to Magdeburg 13th July
Although I had organized a race with one of our friendly German chaps at 9am the next day, the "Bibergeile" (beaverjuice) we had been sampling had left me feeling a little poorly, so a 10am start was in order.
Leaving Zum Biber Guesthouse.
Beautiful riding through forest.
A monument in the middle of the forest.
3km of this - brain shaking cobbles.
View from the hostel.
The amazing Green Citadel just near our Hostel.
A church in the evening light.
The Dom - a beautiful old gothic (our favourite style) cathedral.
Leaving Zum Biber Guesthouse.We rode through extensive forests along good gravel tracks for an hour & passed another Leo III monument. Then we were "on road" for a while. Unfortunately 3 km of the "road" consisted of nasty rough cobblestones, which joined Pradel & Dornburg. A welcome return to the cycle path took us along a holiday lakes area. We stopped at Plotzky for lunch.
Beautiful riding through forest.
A monument in the middle of the forest.
3km of this - brain shaking cobbles.After lunch, we opted for a fairly direct rote to Magdeburg & were pleasantly surprised to find paved, quiet cycle paths beside the road almost all the way.
We met up with Rod at the Tousist Info. & booked at the local Youth Hostel, which was excellently located in the centre of the city.
Unfortunately, Rod got off the track somehow and took the long way into town. So, even though he started about 18m km closer than us, he did about 80 km & we only clocked up 56km.
Unfortunately, Rod got off the track somehow and took the long way into town. So, even though he started about 18m km closer than us, he did about 80 km & we only clocked up 56km.
View from the hostel.
The amazing Green Citadel just near our Hostel.
A church in the evening light.
The Dom - a beautiful old gothic (our favourite style) cathedral.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Coswig to Steckby/Barby 12th July
We left Pension Weinhof at about 9am - another grey day- & troddled about 6km plus a ferry ride to reach Wörlitz. It is a UNESCO listed world heritage site (biosphere) with a huge area of landscaped parkland & an English style schloss. Leopold Frederick Franz Von Anhalt-Dessau (alias Leo III) was an enthusiastic landscaper & an eccentric builder. He turned 1000's of acres of the land surrounding Wörlitz into beautiful parks & waterways, dotted with monuments, statues and temples.
We took a serene & scenic 45 minute gondola ride through the Wörlitz Park & enjoyed lunch at an imbiss in the grounds.
Taking a boat ride at Worlitz.
Worlitz Park.
Good bike path heading towards Dessau.
Across the river heading towards Steckby - divided cycle path.
After one more ferry trip and 20 km, we stumbled upon a great gasthaus - Gasthaus Zum Biber (E50 mit frühstuck). Rod had got ahead of us and camped the night at Barby.
Back at Zum Biber, we had teamed up with 2 German cycle touring couples & had a great fun night speaking "Germish".
Meanwhile, Rod had found himself a gem of a restaurant, situated in the middle of an orchard- best meal of the entire trip, he said, (pity u can´t be in 2 places at once)& great apple most??, with his host.
P&T 55km/ Rod 73km today
We took a serene & scenic 45 minute gondola ride through the Wörlitz Park & enjoyed lunch at an imbiss in the grounds.
Taking a boat ride at Worlitz.
Worlitz Park.We rode on 10 km to Oranienburg to a beaver park, but unfortunately it was closed. So, on to Dessau & coffee in another nice town square - overcast weather somewhat spoilt the moment though. A bit of a look through another of Leo's lovely parks brought us to an impressive domed structure, flanked by Egyptian lions. Leo was a busy boy!
Good bike path heading towards Dessau.
Across the river heading towards Steckby - divided cycle path.After one more ferry trip and 20 km, we stumbled upon a great gasthaus - Gasthaus Zum Biber (E50 mit frühstuck). Rod had got ahead of us and camped the night at Barby.
Back at Zum Biber, we had teamed up with 2 German cycle touring couples & had a great fun night speaking "Germish".
Meanwhile, Rod had found himself a gem of a restaurant, situated in the middle of an orchard- best meal of the entire trip, he said, (pity u can´t be in 2 places at once)& great apple most??, with his host.
P&T 55km/ Rod 73km today
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Priesitz to Coswig - July 11
July 11
Pension Am Storkenest.
Stork nest on top of house.
Nice riding, rain threatening but not too bad.
My bike on the ferry.
Another broken spoke on Rod's bike.
At the bike shop.
The main square in Lutherstadt.
Inside the church where Luther is buried.
The church where Luther preached.
The little church next to the big one.
Painting in the Luther museum.
In the Luther museum.
On the way to Coswig.
The courtyard in our Coswig pension.
Pension Am Storkenest.After a very comfortable night and a good breakfast at our pension we headed off on another cool windy morning to nearby Pretzsch to cross the river by ferry. Because of the high water level in the river the ferry wasn't operating and we were advised by some cyclists travelling in the opposite direction to head for Elster, about 20km away, where the ferry was still operating.
Quite nice riding through farmland and small villages. In one village we found a house with a huge stork nest on a platform on the roof, apparently not uncommon in this part of Germany.
Stork nest on top of house.
Nice riding, rain threatening but not too bad.The last 5km approaching the ferry was on a good road with a nice tailwind for a change. The ferry, like others in this area, is attached to a long cable anchored upstream, and uses the current to swing from one bank to the other.
My bike on the ferry.A few km out of Elster Rod discovered he had a broken spoke. We were about 10km from Lutherstadt Wittenburg, where we expected to find a bike shop, but it was about 11:30 on Saturday morning.
Another broken spoke on Rod's bike.We rode into town where a helpful local led us to the bike shop, arriving there 5 minutes before closing time. Ten minutes later the Tricross was fixed.
At the bike shop.It is quite incredible that on each of the two occasions on this trip when we have had a broken spoke (the other one being Tracey's near Verona), we have had it fixed at a bike shop only about half an hour later.
With the bike fixed we found some lunch then had a look around Lutherstadt, the home of Luther and the Reformation, a very interesting place.
With the bike fixed we found some lunch then had a look around Lutherstadt, the home of Luther and the Reformation, a very interesting place.
The main square in Lutherstadt.
Inside the church where Luther is buried.
The church where Luther preached.
The little church next to the big one.
Painting in the Luther museum.
In the Luther museum.Although it was a bit late in the day we decided to press on a bit, and phoned ahead to book a pension in Coswig. On the way to Coswig we rode in the rain a bit, but arrived not too drenched.
On the way to Coswig.
The courtyard in our Coswig pension.
Friday, July 10, 2009
Strehla - Presitz 10th July
Amazingly, we managed to start riding without incident today. The quiet roads through pleasant rural countryside were somewhat marred by the cold headwind which increased in intensity as the day wore on.
An hour into our ride the bike path disappeared into the Elbe - had to walk our bikes around it. The rain & floods are at near record levels this year in Europe.
The bike path underwater.
Radfahrerkirche
The memorial at Torgau.
Statue in Torgau's main square.
A bike tube dispensing machine!
Storm chasers.
When the storm passed we pressed onto Priesitz for a nights lodging at Pension Am Storchenest (Stork#s nest) a special 'bike and bett' (bed) accommodation facility for cyclists on the Elbe Radweg. Nice place, lovely rooms 28 euro single`/46 dble including a pretty good breakfast.
Again we had been hoping to camp but the weather is hardly conducive. 74 km today.
An hour into our ride the bike path disappeared into the Elbe - had to walk our bikes around it. The rain & floods are at near record levels this year in Europe.
The bike path underwater.We stopped at the radfahrerkirche (bicyclists church) and prayed for tailwinds - things definitely improved for a while too.
RadfahrerkircheAt Torgau we came upon the memorial that commemorates the spot where U.S. & Russian troops met 'sealing the defeat of Germany´s Nazi dictatorship´.
The memorial at Torgau.A good local cafe in Torgau provided a hearty lunch & respite from the cold. Doing a quick tour of the town & it´s cenral square, Pat found a dispensing machine of great interest!!!
Statue in Torgau's main square.
A bike tube dispensing machine!As we were approaching Dommitzsch, we could see a huge storm approaching us. We achieved top touring speeds in a well-oiled display of highly professional drafting and just beat the storm into town. The average must have been pretty high even with a fairly stiff headwind that we are just about over. The ice-cream shop provided warmth & sustenance in the nick of time.
Storm chasers.When the storm passed we pressed onto Priesitz for a nights lodging at Pension Am Storchenest (Stork#s nest) a special 'bike and bett' (bed) accommodation facility for cyclists on the Elbe Radweg. Nice place, lovely rooms 28 euro single`/46 dble including a pretty good breakfast.
Again we had been hoping to camp but the weather is hardly conducive. 74 km today.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Dresden - Strehla 9th July
July 9
Despite best intentions, we still managed our usual slow morning start by taking the `proposed` bike route rather than the current one - not our fault - the blöödy map was wrong!
Hostel Kangaroo Stop.
The path started out ok.
Then turned to this.
Tracey crossing the bridge into Meissen.
Rod in a street in Meissen.
The view from our picnic lunch spot.
Our windmill hostel.
Despite best intentions, we still managed our usual slow morning start by taking the `proposed` bike route rather than the current one - not our fault - the blöödy map was wrong!
Hostel Kangaroo Stop.
The path started out ok.
Then turned to this.A cold & cloudy day forced us to stop regularly for hot chocolate etc etc. Our first stop was the beautiful town of Meissen, famous for it´s porcelain & 'fummel' pastry.
Tracey crossing the bridge into Meissen.
Rod in a street in Meissen.Lunch was a picnic in the forest, overlooking the Elbe, with Schloss Hirstein in the near distance, barges on the river and leafy forest as a backdrop.
The view from our picnic lunch spot.After lunch, we were hooting along in fine drafting formation. Our intrepid leader at the time, Rod, must have been in a world of his own. He failed to notice a snake on the track and almost ran over him (may have even clipped him). Anyway, the snake didn't appreciate the intrusion. I was on Rod's wheel at the time - a perfect target & he decided to have a go at me. Luckily, he either hit my shoe or missed, so all was good (a bit of excitemenz for the day!!!). Our last coffee/chocolate stop was a cafe at Riesa, which fortified us for the last leg to Strehla.
Unfortuznately Pat left the map beh8ind at the cafe & had to ride back 3 km to get it.On the way he got lost & had to resort to TomTom - his phone GPS system. As luck would have it, the battery was dead. This meant changing batteries & waiting for TomTom to reboot. Meanwhile Rod & I were getting ready to send out the St Beernard.
Finally, 40 minutes later, we re-grouped & rode the last 8km of the day to Srehla.
Despite the cold wind, Rod opted to camp. Pat & I booked into a youth hostel, in a windmill, 200mt down the road.
We rode 70km today.
Our windmill hostel.
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