Abwinden to Grein (& Melk for P & T) - June 14 - 16

June 14

Our host Stephanie, who spoke quite good English and was keen to improve it, sat us at breakfast with an English cycle touring couple, Philip and Linda. The conversation was such that Stephanie just about had to ask us to leave so she could make up the rooms.
It was always our intention to visit Mauthausen, a WWII concentration camp just a few km further along our route, so off we rode, the sun shining on a beautiful morning, not particularly looking forward to this part of our journey.

It is quite a solid climb up to the camp, which is sited on a hill with beautiful panoramic views over the surrounding stretches of the Danube valley.

Just part of the panoramic view from near the camp entrance.

The inmates within the camp walls of course could not see the view. Visiting these places is a sombre experience. Much of the camp is preserved as a memorial to those who died there, and there is a great deal of information for visitors.

A few hours there was more than enough for us.

After another long conversation with Philip and Linda, who we ran into at the camp, we continued on our way.

Rod and Tracey talking with Philip and Linda near the camp gate.

We crossed the river to the south side just past Mauthausen, and the path took us away from the river through lush farmland and small villages. We stopped for a good lunch at a restaurant near Leitzing.

Beautiful riding.

From the bridge near Grein.

Crossing the Danube again, we rode into Grein, finding a camp ground near the entry to town. The weather still looked good, and Tracey did not feel too bad having had a decent night's sleep in a proper bed, so we decided to risk a night in the tent. Not a good idea.

We set up camp, and Tracey had a rest while Rod & I had a look around town and walked up to the local castle. Grein is quite a nice little place.

Main town square in Grein.

View from near the castle.

Another view from near the castle.

June 15

The campground at Grein is not very well run, and none of us had a very good sleep that night. The highlight of the night was when, just after midnight, a French cycle tourist camped next to us screamed at the top of his voice, in French, at a group of people having a loud party nearby. He did succeed in shutting them up, but in the process woke up those of us who were managing to sleep. The campground is right next to a busy road along which the traffic started to roar at about 5.30am. There is a secondary rail line through Grein with a number of level crossings. The little slow trains sound their horns at each of these, and the sound goes straight through tent walls.

After a sleepless night in the tent Tracey was feeling worse rather than better, and was fairly sure she had a chest infection, so she decided she better see a doctor. After only about half an hour wait she got in to see Dr Dreamy, a rather attractive young doctor, with triathlon trophies all over his office, who prescribed antibiotics and three days rest. Dr Dreamy was obviously very impressed by our journey. The doc explained that the antibiotics were special ones for cyclists, only having to be taken for three days but working for twelve days.

We decided we needed to stay in Grein for at least another day. Someone we ran into in the information centre recommended a private zimmer they had just stayed at on a farm just out of town. We (Tracey, our German speaker) phoned to see if they had suitable vacancies for the three of us. Without really deciding to we ended up booking in and heading out and up the steep hill to the zimmer.

Incredibly, before we headed out to the zimmer we ran into Philip and Linda again. Tracey was pretty crook, and it was not ideal being stranded out of town. Our hostess spoke no English at all which is unusual, and makes it a bit hard to relate.

On arrival we were offered complimentary "most". We think this is a homemade strongly alcoholic apple cider.

Our complimentary most - powerful stuff.

The front of the farmhouse zimmer.

After a most-induced afternoon nap, I headed into town to find some take-away food for Tracey and I. I returned with a doner-kebab and a pizza. Picture a pizza that has been carried on its edge in a pannier along cobblestone streets.

June 16

Tracey decided she might as well catch the train to the next town of Melk, about 40km away. I took the train with Trace while Rod rode. It was a very pleasant train ride on a very slow, frequently stopping, little train. There was a whole carriage to put the bikes in.

Leaving the farmhouse zimmer.

At Grein railway station.

We had a whole carriage for bikes.

View of the Danube from the train.

When we arrived in Melk the information centre had just closed for its 12-2 break, so we had a long slow lunch in a cafe in the charming narrow, winding main street.
Of course we ran into Philip and Linda again, and began to wonder if they were stalking us.
When the info centre reopened we found a private zimmer behind a shoe shop nearby. It was very basic but central and suitable, with a kitchen.
For dinner we cooked some pork and veges.